Spaghetti Pomodoro with Meatballs

1. Boil water

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, using just enough water to cover the pasta by 1-2 inches. This will save you some time waiting for the water to boil and will also ensure that you have plenty of starch in the pasta water to help hold your emulsion. Add about two teaspoons of salt per quart of water, but be aware that if your pasta water reduces while you're preparing the rest of the recipe, the salt will be concentrated. Once boiling, turn the heat off and place a lid on the pot until you're ready to cook the pasta.

2. Sweat aromatics

Heat a medium saute pan over medium heat and add the butter. Once melted, sweat the garlic and onion, with a pinch of salt, until soft and translucent. Place aside to cool.

3. Prepare the Panade and Meatball mix

Tear the bread into pieces and place them into a small bowl. Pour the milk over the bread, and let it soak for about 10 minutes, until the bread has absorbed the milk and softened. In a large bowl, combine the ground meat, soaked bread, beaten egg, cooked onion and garlic, grated Parmesan, chopped parsley, a large pinch of salt, and a few cracks of pepper. Mix the ingredients gently until well combined.

4. Make the Meatballs

Since you can't really add more salt to the meatballs after they're cooked, now is the time to adjust the seasoning of the meat mixture if need be. To do so, make a small meatball, about half the size of a golf ball. Cook this in a pan with some oil. Let it rest for a couple minutes then taste it. Adjust seasonings if need be. Once you're satisfied, shape the meat mixture into meatballs, each about the size of a golf ball. Let the meatballs rest in the fridge at least 20 minutes before cooking. For a more foolproof method of seasoning your meatballs, consider using a gram-scale to weigh all of the ingredients, then adding 1.8% of that weight in salt as a good starting point.

5. Cook the Meatballs

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add enough olive or avocado oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Sear the meatballs until they are browned on all sides, about a minute or two per side. It's better to not sear them enough than to overcook. Transfer the browned meatballs to a plate and set aside. Alternatively, you can place your meatballs in a cast iron pan, and set them 6-8 inches away from a pre-heated broiler until they're dark brown and crispy.

6. Prepare the Pomodoro Sauce

In the same skillet in which you cooked the meatballs, drain the fat so that you have about 1-2 tablespoons left. Heat on medium and add the crushed garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is softened but not golden brown, about 2-3 minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes to the skillet, along with a pinch of salt, freshly ground black pepper and the basil sprigs. Stir to combine and bring the sauce to a simmer. Cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened slightly.

7. Simmer the Meatballs in the Sauce

Return the meatballs to the skillet with the tomato sauce, cover, and let them simmer for about 5 minutes, or until the meatballs are just cooked through.

8. Cook the Pasta

While the meatballs are simmering, cook the spaghetti in boiling salted water for 30 seconds to a minute less than the package directions suggest. Reserve a cup of pasta water.

9. Finish the Pasta Pomodoro

Add the drained spaghetti and some of the reserved pasta water to the skillet with the sauce and meatballs. You may need to divide between two pans to accomplish this, or remove the meatballs so you can stir the pasta without breaking them up. Stir to combine, and cook for an additional 1-2 minutes, until the pasta is al dente and the sauce has thickened and emulsified. If the sauce is too thick, add more pasta water a tablespoon at a time until it reaches the desired consistency.

10. Add Basil and Cheese

Remove the skillet from heat, and stir in the torn basil leaves and grated Pecorino Romano and Parmesan cheeses. Stir until the cheese has fully melted, adjust the consistency with pasta water if needed.

11. Serve

Taste the sauce for seasoning, adjusting with salt if needed. Divide between plates and serve.